Bolivia, often overlooked and uniquely diverse, stands as a captivating jewel in South America, inviting intrepid travelers to uncover its ancient secrets and breathtaking landscapes.
Far from the well-trodden paths, this landlocked nation reveals a rich tapestry of cultural heritage, from the bustling streets of La Paz and Santa Cruz to the pristine wilderness of the Andes and the Amazon. Imagine towering peaks that touch the clouds, verdant rainforests teeming with life, and vast savannahs that stretch to the horizon—all part of Bolivia's undeniable allure.
Beyond the iconic starkness of the Uyuni salt flats and the lesser-known, ancient Inca routes of Cordillera Apolobamba, Bolivia unfurls an endless panorama of vivid colors and profound intrigue.
Visitors often find themselves enchanted, reluctant to bid farewell to a country that promises discovery at every turn.
For those seeking an intimate adventure, custom itineraries crafted by local experts can lead to truly unforgettable moments, perhaps observing Magellanic penguins, trekking through the rugged beauty of Torres del Paine National Park, or witnessing the awe-inspiring Perito Moreno Glacier.
Understanding lgbtq+ life and legal landscape in bolivia
While Bolivia has not yet recognized marriage equality or same-sex civil unions, it holds a noteworthy position as one of the pioneering nations globally to enact legislation explicitly prohibiting discrimination based on sexual orientation and gender identity.
This legal safeguard offers a degree of reassurance for LGBTQ+ travelers. However, it's crucial to acknowledge that societal attitudes can be more conservative, particularly outside major urban centers, and stigma towards homosexuality may still be encountered.
Public displays of affection are generally discouraged, especially in more rural settings.
Yet, within the dynamic metropolises, a vibrant LGBTQ+ spirit truly flourishes. The heart of La Paz's queer scene beats strongly, epitomized by groups like La Familia Galán. This trailblazing gender-bending theater collective dedicates itself to enlightening local communities about sexuality and gender through compelling performances, fostering dialogue and understanding.
For those interested in connecting with local events and communities, the Open Mind Club serves as a valuable resource for schedules and gatherings.
For all visitors to Bolivia, it is worth noting that while the country, like many in the region, faces challenges such as drug-related crime and political fluctuations, it generally maintains a reputation for being one of the safest—and indeed, most affordable—travel destinations in South America.
Bolivia's diverse geography and optimal travel times
Situated centrally within South America, Bolivia spans an incredible array of climates and landscapes, making it one of the continent's most thrilling terrains.
To the west, the majestic Andes mountain range forms two long, parallel ridges, separated by the windswept plains of the Andean plateau—these are the country's cooler, high-altitude regions. Even with such dramatic variations, seasonal changes are distinct and notable.
The extended winter season, from May to October, marks the dry period.
This is widely considered the ideal time to explore the lowlands, which offer milder temperatures and reduced humidity, although rain showers can occur year-round. Coinciding with high tourist season, visitors should anticipate larger crowds and potentially higher prices.
Conversely, June and July bring crystal-clear skies and abundant sunshine, making them prime months for exhilarating hiking and climbing expeditions.
Later, between July and August, strong Patagonian winds sweep across the nation, bringing a chill even to parts of the Amazon.
From late August to September, agricultural fires are common, which can lead to hazy skies, diminished visibility, and potential respiratory discomfort for those with sensitivities, such as asthma sufferers.
Exploring the urban marvels of bolivia
La paz: the city that touches the sky
Nestled within a dramatic canyon on the Andean Plateau, La Paz is an awe-inspiring city framed by the snow-capped peak of Mount Illimani and cradled by steep valley slopes adorned with countless residences.
At an astonishing 3,600 meters above sea level, placing it remarkably close to the troposphere, La Paz has a unique way of leaving visitors literally and figuratively breathless. What it may lack in oxygen, however, it more than compensates for with its breathtaking natural beauty and vibrant urban tapestry.
The city's core lies predominantly within the sunnier bowl of the crater, where charming boutique hotels and colorful carnival parades create a lively atmosphere.
Meanwhile, in the shadow of the sprawling El Alto, La Paz reveals a grittier, cooler character. Ascend above the exhaust fumes and bustling streets, and La Paz truly amazes with a skyline punctuated by gothic spires and glittering modern hotels, all interconnected by a contemporary cable car system that vastly improves accessibility in this famously hilly metropolis.
On a serious note, altitude sickness is a very real concern for visitors to La Paz; individuals with pre-existing medical conditions should consult their doctor before traveling to such high elevations.
Cochabamba: bolivia's culinary and cultural heart
A rapidly expanding city renowned for its exceptional gastronomy, Cochabamba thrives in a fertile, hilly region of central Bolivia.
Despite centuries of Spanish colonial influence, Cochabamba, like much of Bolivia, steadfastly preserves the deep-rooted traditions of its indigenous communities. Here, it is common to witness a population that simultaneously embraces Catholicism while also seeking guidance from ancient mountain deities, illustrating a profound cultural syncretism.
The annual Fiesta de la Virgen de Urkupiña in mid-August perfectly exemplifies this vibrant cultural fusion.
This celebrated event draws hundreds of thousands of visitors each year for a spectacular costumed procession and a culinary feast, commemorating the fabled early 19th-century sighting of the Virgin Mary, said to have ascended from heaven. Yet, upon deeper examination, the fiesta's origins are interwoven with Quechua culture and pre-Christian beliefs, referencing an Incan moon deity that was later conflated with the Virgin Mary by Spanish settlers.
Santa cruz: a blend of commerce and jungle charm
Santa Cruz masterfully combines business acumen with leisurely pursuits, presenting a sophisticated mix of professionals and a more relaxed, diverse community of international residents.
Its unique composition, boasting enclaves of Japanese, Brazilian, and Russian cultures, often surprises newcomers with its lowland location, in close proximity to the rainforest and a plethora of other natural attractions.
The nearby sand dunes are a popular spot, offering a perfect end to the day before returning to the city center, where a fantastic selection of restaurants and vibrant nightlife awaits in the downtown area, west of the San Lorenzo River.
Sucre: the colonial gem
Often overshadowed by travelers prioritizing Bolivia's larger cities, Sucre is, in fact, a true urban jewel.
Bursting with charm and a rich colonial heritage, it is perched on an eastern highland valley edge of the Andean Plateau. Once the esteemed center of the Spanish Empire in Alto Peru and the post-independence capital, Sucre has since ceded much of its political power to La Paz, yet it gracefully retains its aristocratic character and architectural grandeur.
Laid out in impressive colonial styles, Sucre enjoys a spring-like climate year-round and remains surprisingly affordable and uncrowded.
This allows visitors the pleasure of easily exploring its numerous cultural sites and plazas on foot. Situated at approximately 2,800 meters, Sucre and its surrounding areas are home to a number of Quechua-speaking indigenous communities. A short trip to any of these rural towns, such as Tarabuco to the southeast, offers the chance to witness their exquisite weaving skills firsthand, or simply visit the Museo de Arte Indigena for an afternoon of cultural immersion.
Potosí: city of silver and altitude
Approximately 170 kilometers south of Sucre lies the former colonial mining hub of Potosí, which was once one of the largest cities in the world.
Its immense wealth stemmed from the silver-laden Cerro Rico, or "Rich Mountain," upon which it was founded. While the vast riches of Potosí have long been depleted, the city endured periods of decline and poverty before experiencing a resurgence in the 21st century, partly attributed to increased tourism.
As with La Paz, travelers are strongly advised to consult their doctor regarding altitude sickness, as Potosí sits at an astounding 4,000 meters, surpassing even the capital in elevation and earning its place among the highest cities globally.
Bolivia's natural wonders
Torotoro national park: a land of dinosaurs and caves
Deep within the Andean valleys, approximately 140 kilometers south of Cochabamba, lies the remarkable Torotoro National Park.
Despite being Bolivia's smallest national park, it is celebrated for an astonishing diversity of landscapes. Spanning 165 square kilometers around the village of the same name, Torotoro offers a wealth of attractions, including canyons adorned with waterfalls, dramatic hanging valleys, and ancient limestone rock formations riddled with captivating caves and prehistoric fossils.
Embark on an adventure where you can literally walk in the footsteps of dinosaurs along the eroded Torotoro Canyon.
Peer into the adjacent Umajallanta caves to glimpse ancient rock paintings alongside pre-Inca ruins. For avid hikers, expeditions to the fortress of Llama Chaqui are highly recommended, offering opportunities to spot brightly colored macaws, flocks of parakeets, and majestic vultures soaring above the woodlands and ravines that line the trail.
Guided bus tours typically transport travelers past the fossil sites and into the caves for fully-equipped, though often muddy, explorations of these intricate subterranean systems.
Salar de uyuni: the world's largest salt flat
Consistently ranked as one of Bolivia's most iconic destinations, the Salar de Uyuni, also known as the Bolivian salt flats, stands as the largest and highest of its kind on Earth.
Spanning an immense 10,582 square kilometers and situated at an elevation of 3,656 meters above sea level, this otherworldly landscape provides an unforgettable spectacle of endless white horizons, especially when reflecting the sky during the rainy season.
Nación marica: forging a decolonial queer identity in bolivia
The origins of Nación Marica (The Marica Nation) are deeply rooted in a transformative intellectual and activist journey.
The group emerged from discussions within the MMB collective, influenced significantly by critical thinkers like María Galindo and the subversive literary works of Pedro Lemebel, among other foundational figures in Latin American queer movements. This formative period was instrumental in shaping their unique political and identity framework.
Nación Marica explicitly positions its members as "subaltern subjects, marginal, fat, old, hiv positive—we are everything that is not gay." This declaration is central to their philosophy.
The term "marica," traditionally a derogatory slur in Spanish-speaking cultures, is intentionally re-appropriated as a powerful political statement. It represents not only a reclamation of the insult but also a proposal for "becoming," as articulated by the Argentine queer theorist Néstor Perlongher.
This concept emphasizes identities in flux, not as fixed and defined categories, but as entities in constant evolution and multiplicity.
Through this lens, Nación Marica understands its members not merely as "maricas" but as interconnected individuals who are also workers, students, hiv-positive, or elderly—embracing all facets of existence that challenge the narrow confines of a singular "gay" identity.
The term "marica" has thus enabled them to construct an identity firmly rooted in their local context, providing a specific framework for understanding sexual dissidence within Bolivia.
Their approach directly challenges the pervasive "gay world," which, in their view, has become a hegemonic and homogenous category not only in Bolivia but across Latin America, often presented as the sole legitimate way to identify as homosexual.
Nación Marica consciously pursues an opposing trajectory, drawing inspiration from figures like Pedro Lemebel, Néstor Perlongher, and Reinaldo Arenas, with particular reverence for Lemebel and his collaborators, Las Yeguas del Apocalipsis. The work of Las Yeguas in 1980s Chile, though not then labeled "activism" (a term more prevalent in the 21st century), offered a powerful model for merging political critique with artistic expression.
Their performances, like "La convulsión coliza" and the figure of "la loca," resonated deeply with Nación Marica's aspiration to integrate radio-based activism with public actions and performance art.
Collective learning and intersectionality
Nación Marica's methodology is characterized by a blend of political theory, direct action, and embodied performance, forged through collective assemblies and encounters with fellow activists.
Their radio program, initially on Radio Deseo, served not only as a platform for broadcast but also as a vital space for collective learning. Here, members would convene, engage in open dialogue, and reflect on their personal experiences, finding it a profoundly healing process.
This dynamic of collective reflection continues to shape their current programming with Nación Marica, ensuring that questions, thematic focus, and invited guests are always born from shared understanding and debate.
It was within this collaborative radio environment that the group began to grasp what is now termed intersectionality.
This understanding emerged not in isolation, but through interactions with other collectives occupying the same radio space, including domestic workers, animal activists, and chefs. A particularly strong resonance was found with the domestic workers' group, stemming from shared social contexts and a mutual recognition of their indigeneity.
This experience emphasized the importance of speaking from a specific territory and indigenous identity, while carefully navigating and avoiding nationalist tropes.
Performance, documentation, and the politics of visibility
Inspired by Pedro Lemebel and Las Yeguas del Apocalipsis, Nación Marica adopted street interventions and performance as core elements of their activism.
Lemebel's enigmatic and powerful work provided a blueprint for their engagement with public spaces. However, the group often notes the striking absence of Bolivia in broader Latin American artistic and activist narratives, lamenting its exclusion from significant anthologies and projects that map the politicization of the term "marica" across the region.
"Bolivia is the great absentee," they assert, underscoring the necessity of bringing their work to wider audiences while also highlighting the rich, homegrown artistic and activist proposals within Bolivia that often combine activism with art.
Nación Marica's collaborative efforts consistently prioritize marginal voices and spaces.
They explicitly distinguish themselves from institutional or official activist groups, such as the TLGB Collective or COLIBOL LGBT, which they view as potentially usurping the true representation of Bolivia's LGBT population. Their project is rooted in a marginal position, constructing a proposal that is not only queer but also indigenous, chola, aimara, quechua, and decolonial—truly encompassing "everything that is not gay."
This commitment to the margins extends to their collaborations with artists and activists across Latin America.
They have connected with figures like Bartolina Xixa from northern Argentina, who also explores border and peripheral spaces. Similarly, they've engaged with Seba Calfuqueo from Chile, whose work delves into Mapuche identity and ancestral pre-Hispanic dissident sexualities.
In Peru, they have collaborated with Maricas Peru, a collective based in Puno, known for hosting events in non-traditional spaces, such as a book presentation in a hairdressing salon—a deliberate move to step away from hegemonic venues and into politically charged queer spaces.
These alliances foster a "tejido Sudaca," a "fabric of Abya Yala," enabling a collective reflection on indigenous and chola identities, and sexual dissidence within indigeneity, while also acknowledging the conservatism and moralism that can exist within indigenous communities themselves.
Critiquing political appropriations and the public sphere
Nación Marica maintains a critical stance toward political parties, specifically the MAS (Movement for Socialism) government.
While MAS often presents itself as a left-wing, inclusive social movement that incorporates LGBT issues into its agenda, Nación Marica perceives this as demagoguery. They contend that any advancements in laws or policies benefiting the LGBT population during MAS administrations were the result of persistent struggle by LGBT comrades, rather than benevolent concessions from the government.
Despite MAS appropriating these achievements to project an inclusive image, the group points out that powerful figures within the government often perpetuate misogynistic, sexist, homophobic, and transphobic practices, citing Evo Morales's own publicly recorded homophobic statements.
They acknowledge that the institutionalized LGBT movement in Bolivia often engages in lobbying and logistical work with those in power—a seemingly necessary approach to achieve policy changes.
However, Nación Marica emphasizes the crucial need to continuously question these relationships, as aligning too closely with power structures can often backfire. Their practice is firmly rooted in street interventions and public space interactions, but video documentation is an equally vital element, highlighting a broader engagement with performances captured for camera.
This intentional documentation is seen as nearly as important as the intervention itself, challenging notions of invasive recording versus careful, respectful capture of public art.
For Nación Marica, public interventions are not merely performances but direct challenges to the prevailing "classist, racist, homolesbotransphobic hegemony" within the national discourse.
They deliberately choose specific dates, such as May 17th (International Day Against Homophobia, Transphobia and Biphobia) and June 28th (Pride Day), to launch decolonial proposals that assert indigenous identities and critique classism and racism within the broader TLGB movement.
These actions in public spaces inevitably provoke strong reactions. A vivid example was their intervention on August 6th, Bolivia's Independence Day, where they dragged the Bolivian flag in San Francisco Square, leading to threats and their eventual departure.
They recognize that national symbols and religious institutions, particularly the Catholic Church, remain highly sacred and sensitive points for many, underscoring the risks and potential for confrontation inherent in their work. Beyond street actions, Nación Marica also actively engages through social media and digital channels, extending their reach and dialogue into virtual public spaces.